Heading South

Equator

The morning was a flurry of activity to pack and get started. Jimmy was guiding us out of town. Coen was driving. Outer city roads are not good and then it got better as we approached the equator (again). There they did find the board announcing the equator a bit beyond the 0’00 coordinate where they stopped to have something to eat. But there came some rather annoying people – beggars more like – from the village and they soon packed up and left.

On the road they met with a contingent of the French army in Gabon most probably on their way to some place where they will do some exercises or something; there were quite a few of them trucks, personnel carriers, armoured cars etc.

The scenery was very much the same as the north, villages made up of cement houses but also wooden houses, people selling bananas and bush meat along the road, people carrying cut wood, slash and burn parts of the forest etc.

All countries have their natural beauty one way or another. Gabon has rain forests, rivers with white sand, sandy beaches and rocky beaches too. It is a warm place but all this would make for a beautiful country but for its people.

In all this nature, there is practically nothing left, they have eaten it all. Pretty fleeting statement but what can you think when you drive along their roads you see posters about protecting the environment: the trees, the turtles and the rest. Then all along the same road you see animals hanging, for sale: pangolins, mongoose, monkeys, snakes etc. You see posters about the training of game rangers but there are organised poachers in the parks.

This place is where rare species occur: leatherback turtles, dugongs etc. Let us not mention the logging that is taking place. It seemed to be pretty well organised in places but then you see parts of a forest just being burnt and the trunks cut in small pieces. Not forgetting the water and power cuts in this oil producing country where all infrastructure is not catching up with whatever development that is allowed to happen.

It is very unfortunate that there seem to be a handful of educated people here and then the rest of the population who does not seem to do much in general or to want to do much. Then there is a rather high population of immigrants who work – at anything: small vendors, house personnel, shops, and manual work of any kind.

Oil producing! And how come other countries are funding their forest projects, their roads, their food security programme?

And they went on south and further until she noticed that suddenly the temperature of the car had risen too high. This was in Lambarene where they stopped at a petrol station to fill. They pulled up into some empty area at that same petrol station and did a réparation de fortune with two part putty, waited for it to set and moved on.

Water source

They were told of a fresh, drinking water source further and they stopped there too. This is just a little stream jutting out of the flank of the escarpment; the water was clear and not as cool as she expected. The putty work seems to be holding.

Towing

However, when they wanted to start off, Hans’ car was not starting properly, the clutch was playing up. It would not make it to the next town, they concluded. They phoned around and Willem recommended that they go back to Lambarene and see with someone there if something cannot be done.

They got the towing gear in place and turned round in the direction of Lambarene. The road was good and it was raining a bit. At one point they saw a commotion, it was a truck that had recently driven off the road – lost control or something. They drove on and got to the airport to find the person who could assist with making a diagnostic on the car.

A few minutes later they were guiding the towing into the premises of the airport and very soon there were about 3 army guys onto the car. While they were finding out what was wrong, she drove out to find a place to sleep. She read about this ‘Soeurs de l’Immaculé’ and Coen found the directions from the army people.

When they arrived there, it was still raining but the sister said she can help them with rooms for a night or two but after that she was fully booked. The rooms were suitable, not cheap but as Gabon goes, it works out. They have the use of the kitchen complete with cooker, washbasins outside and dishcloths as well.

It looked like nerves were running rather raw when they were all at the mission. She opted to cook that evening and made couscous with merguez. They ate in the refectory reserved for visitors.

Lodgings above the nursery school at the Sisters of Immaculé

And then they prepared for the night, the water did not heat up in the shower but it was ok. The place was silent except for the odd car that raced down the road. It was a very peaceful night. They woke up with the noise of the army vehicle leaving the premises (the one guy on this army exercise sleeps at this mission every night).

Soon coffee was ready, the cars were hooked together and they were off, leaving Mariana with her at the mission. They went to the room where they watched school children coming in that morning – small ones on the sisters’ side and bigger ones on the other side. Very well behaved children altogether, prayers and singing of national anthem before going into class.

Entrance of the A. S Museum

Inside the museum

Old hospital refurbished

Later, when it was time to remove the car from school premises, they drove off to take a look at the Albert Schweitzer hospital and museum. This is on a scenic part of the river and they spent a bit more than an hour there walking and looking at the scenery and taking pictures. The girl who looks after the place took their entrance money and then said she had to go to the bank and will not open the other part of the museum! That is where they still have the original equipment that Albert Schweitzer brought in the first hospital.

After that they went to the market where they found and bought plastic kettles!!?! It was drizzling a bit but nothing nasty. The market was a bit of a covered place. People were friendly and explained a few things to them as they walked along. A short visit to the supermarket, and they were back at the mission to make tinned salmon sandwiches in the room. The kiddies had invaded the refectory by then.

The men phoned to say they were all right and making progress on the road. And they phoned again when they were leaving Libreville.

Land Cruiser parked at the church

Later they went for a walk to buy airtime and to check on the car. It was still very hot and they both went for cold showers afterwards. They walked off to the church where the car was parked for the day, when it was time to get it back to the Mission. In the meantime the men were back, exhausted and sweaty and also rather concerned about how Hans and Elismé were doing back there in Libreville.

Soon there were sms’ from them and the situation was discussed while they were having dinner at the Groupe DTH Traiteur that the sister recommended earlier. They ate copiously, the service was good too.