Just a'visiting

Coen did not go with when they went to Djenne thanks to the shoddy work done on the radiator by Silverton Radiators. When the radiator was removed to find where the leak was, they noticed a piece of gasket in there and whatever signs of the work they claimed to have done were not there.

On the road to Djenne

This is how she went with Hans and Elismé who cleared their third seat for her. It was not a very long drive and the ferry trip was pretty straightforward too.

Ferry crossing

To get to Djenne there was a bridge and a ferry as well. It was market day in Djenne , the roads were bustling with activity, smells and atmosphere. The two cars found a place to park and they walked to the famous and biggest mosque made of mud. There were a couple of signs saying that 




non-muslims should not enter.

It was not prayer time and it did not say that women should not enter either so she was removing her shoes to go in when a guy came from the side saying that she should not enter. Upon enquiring he said it was because she was not muslim. How does he know this, she challenged. A bit defeated he told her to go see the ‘old man’ around the corner.

Largest mud mosque

Well it was not around the corner, it was down the steps and then around the corner, inside a lean-to shack. He had not view of the entrance of the mosque nor could he speak decent Frence or English – you ask how could he be the guardian of that mosque.

Inner courtyard of mosque

Whichever way she was asked to recite something. Still he said it was not enough. She enquired why they are doing this to her when two white people entered the mosque before her. That put the cat amongst the pigeons, the first guy who hailed her went off to find out. She was told she could get into the mosque but also that she has made trouble for them.

Inside of mosque

Well, it was true. Two pale faces had entered the mosque and the guy did not see. Now he was losing face and was a bit frantic that she should not enter. She was in already but they were following her, four of them, guardian included. Defeated, they told her she had to pray there and then.

She felt that her beliefs were forced out of her but she did 2 nafil rakaats while the 4 guys were arguing behind. Again she defeated them and they did not know what to say. She went out through the back door of the mosque and sat there full of resentment. And that got them highly upset that they all came and asked to be forgiven, saying they were sorry and giving all manner of lame explanations why they did what they did.

They followed her through the mosque asking for forgiveness. She told them stupidity did not need to be forgiven! And that God was witness of what they did. Whew! Did that get them hot and bothered. The one said that it was Ramadhan and she SHOULD forgive. She just told him not to dictate to her what she should and should not do.

Other view of mud mosque

When she exited, the one told her that the guardian wanted to see her. In his shack he too asked for forgiveness. Well, tough, that they were reduced to that due to their own bigotry, it is their issue.

They walked a bit more in the market and were on their way back when Coen sent an sms saying that the work on his car was done and he was waiting for us in Mopti. This is where they headed.

Mopti is known as the Venice of Mali – Ahem! Mainly because of the

Mopti port

waterways there and the shape of the river boats (pinasse) but otherwise it is a far cry from Venice. It also is the biggest port in Mali. It is situated where the Niger and the Bani rivers meet.

View of port from pinasse

Coen guided us to where he was waiting and said he thinks that a boat ride would be better so that they would not get hounded by so-called guides. He had a ‘pinassier’ shortlisted for us and we made for the boat. It was a comfortable banana shaped boat, well appointed for tourists – a P C as the Reunionese would put it.

Rainstorm on river

Rain on river

She had seen the dark cloud that was already bringing rain further upriver but still went ahead in the boat. As they reached one of the islands on the Niger river, the rainstorm reached them. The boat was being pushed towards the island and the boatman did his best to keep it in its course. They asked him to stop struggling, to just let go and wait for the storm to pass before going on.

Typical village of the region

He brought the sides of the cover down to stop rain from getting in, while he held a reed mat in front for the same purpose. After a while the rain abated and they could proceed back. They were hungry, tired and concluded that they will head back to ViaVia for the night.

After breakfast the next day they took the road to Timbuktu, towards Douentza first and then north. Half the road to Douentza is good, then it gets bad, with potholes in it and from there on north it is a dirt road which might be seeing some maintenance after the rains.